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http://members.cox.net/furtherfoodforthought2/pet_manners_matters.htm
Hello Friends,
My Name is William (Bill) Hardison, my website is Food ForThought, primarily a website of homespun poetry of a great variety.. consisting of Humor, Inspirations, Ideals, Memories and Turmoil. However I have other features of great interest and pleasure. One of which I now invite you to indulge. A newly installed program beginning with chapter 1 and 2 which completes the first phase, the "Novice Class". It will remain as a permanent fixture hereafter at this blog. If it is your desire to continue with the necessary procedure training for the obedience trial competition, the remaining chapters 3 and 4 which pertains to a more advanced form of training, can be persued by linking to my main website, "Food For Thought" which link is displayed at the end of this presentation. The title is "Pet Manners Matters," a program of instructions presented in detail, and based on the many years I experienced in teaching dog obedience training. You will learn in a professional way how to teach your dogs ( the necessary and correct methods of control applications to achieve the very best results. I promise you a lot of fun and enjoyment in this endeavor. Once you begin the first chapter, you can expect to be captured by the coming events. Whether you now have pets or not, you will enjoy the pleasure and the education you will receive in my presentation. Just remember, a well trained pet is a much happier pet... not to mention the owners! But to start, enjoy "MAN'S BEST FRIEND"
PET MANNERS MATTERSFOREWARD
It is with great pleasure to introduce this great new feature here at "William's Blog." The contents are directed to anyone interested in improving, or advancing their dog's behavior. The methods of teaching cannine discipline herein are strickly my own, and based on a life-long experience as a trainer and the success I had in that endeavor. You may, or may not agree,or have idenical results with your dogs upon application of my instructions because personalities, characteristics, etc., differ in both the dogs and the handlers, but it is my hope and wish that you use my material and advice as your best guide. Without a pet, it would be well appreciated if you would share this valuable information site with someone interested in my procedures.
Instead of the terms "pet" or "pets" I am referring to dog(s)primarily in this production. In my case it was dogs, six of my own and many instructions for other handlers over a long period of time. Also for simple clarification I'm using the terminology, "him" "his" "he" "them" "their" "They"... when referring to the pet in my program instructions, with due respect to the female gender. Because there is so much to be said and done in any one effort, it becomes necessary to offer this program in chapters. Chapter 1 and 2 being this presentation, which I begin by dedicating the project in the name of my last, but not least, champion "Rocky"; a German Shepherd whom also represents a poem I wrote located at the close of chapter 4 of this presentation. . It is noteworthy to mention.. that training your dog will never really end throughout your relationship, but it will become very easy to maintain as you progress; how long, and how much effective effort you put into it determines the amount of progress you make.
William E. Hardison (c)
CHAPTER 1
When I think of dog training certain words come to mind: frustration, anguish, impatience, to name just a few that lead to an unpleasant personality for both you and the dog. The most important thing to learn above everything else: None of the above should ever
enter into your relationship with your dog, whether you are working in a training session or not. There are several important things to know and remember as you get started; One is ..your dog will inherit the personality you exhibit. Next, your dog has a "one track mind", meaning that they do not have any flexibility or reasoning in their thinking capacity. The best word and one that can't be emphasized enough, is "REPETITION".. Repetition, the act of doing something over, and over and over again the same way, and the best and only solution to teach a dog anything. So where do we start? First, you must have the proper tools, like any job that seeks the best results.The following two items to begin:
# 1 - leather leash ( 6 feet long )
# 2 - stainless steel "choker" collar. (ring on both ends) Both items can be purchased at any pet store, just consider the size of your dog. Everything in use has by itself, a very specific reason for it's importance. The leash is yours and the dog's best friend, it enables you to control their every move and it should become a delight for them as soon as you make it present. It is your duty to convey to them that the training session is pleasurable, but firm and business-like. Never, never strike the dog with the leash, playfully are in anger. the leash becomes the symbol of love and happiness, yet control! The "choker" collar is necessary because it can be placed around the dog's neck in a proper way so that you can slightly "jerk" on the leash to control their position without any harm to the dog. When you release the tension on the collar it will automatically fall back into it's proper place. Just be sure that one of the rings is in the right lower position to hook the leash. The "choker" collar can be worn at all times if you choose. Everything I've stated so far is assuming your dog is of proper age for any serious obedience training. "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is a misnomer. Like any older folks with two legs it just takes a little longer. The Ideal age to begin advanced training is at least 6 months, this gives enough time for the playful puppy traits to disappear; however you can begin at their much earlier age with the "House-Breaking" procedures, which I will touch on brieftly. Also the basic sit, come and stay exercises can be done.. but with a cautious eye. It is important to understand that when your new puppy arrives in your home, it is still a new-born, and like any infant, it becomes necessary to "crawl before the walk." The only obedience to teach them at this time and the next several weeks, is to introduce your young dog to the outdoors when nature makes it call, and believe me in the early age, it is very often! Some people prefer to "Paper Train" in the first week or so, while this method is OK, I recommend taking him directly outside, hopefully before an "accident" occurs. Common sense plays a huge part in the quickest and most successful outcome in the results. Understand a young pup in the first few days at home will need "To Go" about 5 or 6 times a day. It is crucial that you watch him carefully during this period of time anticipating by his own indication of the necessity. You will learn his actions very quickly. Should an "accident" occur, please do not "rub his nose in it", as some people are known to do, but a firm scolding as you find the "pup", and take him outside. Since it is an animal's instinct and desire to use the outdoors for their business, this method will work very quickly. Just remember: "Repetition", and when they respond favorably, give a lot of praise and enthusiasm. Treats are not really necessary at this time. Also a brief note about your intention. If your desire is to train your dog for obedience trials, sanctioned by the American Kennel Club, he must have "Papers" as a pure-bred, and registered with the A.K.C. If this is your choice, it is strongly recommended that you join a training club in your area, although the latter part of my program will still be available at my main site. The best results come when the animals are trained together, and a club produces a better avenue to sanctioned trials. Otherwise this presentation will suffice, whether your dog is registered or not.
Consider your dog in the "novice" class. There are 6 categories and commands listed below:
(#-1) - "HEEL" (# -2) - "SIT"
(# -3 )-"STAY" (# - 4) - "COME"
(# -5) - "Stand" (# - 6) - "DOWN"
:IMPORTANT FACTS TO REMEMBER:
(1)- All commands should be delivered in a firm and determined voice, and always with a hand and arm gesture to accompany the voice command.
(2-) - The training periods should be limited to no more than 30 minutes each one session a day, or 3 ten minute sessions 3 times per day.
(3) - Take the first two commands, "heel" and "sit" , to begin your training program.
(4) - Perform exercises between meals, and at the most desirable time(s) of the day.
(5) - For the most part you must be repetitious in your time selection as well as all commands, and most importantly, when to say no and when to reward . When they comply with your commands, always give a lot of praise , or unpleasant remark with "NO" if they do not......again use repitition. Eventually, the leash (at times) will be eliminated in favor of just a voice of praise.
(6) - Always maintain your temper. In the beginning they will only want to play. Use your leash and collar to control without any violent or harsh behavior on your part, you will learn as I did: "Just when you think they won't do it...they will!" The most satisfying thing in the world is when you and your pet perform an excercise sucessfully. No one will say it's easy, but it is really worth it.
(7) -Use the dog's name before every command in the arsenal of training.
So let's start with the first command, "HEEL". Choose a large area of ground to begin your manuevers. Attach the lease in the lower ring of the "choker" collar, give a firm command, using the dog's name first, then "HEEL!" Wrap the leash up in your hands and walk your dog around your back to your left side, or left heel as it were. He should sit, if not, use the command "Sit". You may need to press his rear down gently to the sit position. there is another way to get your dog to the heel position which I explain a bit later in this program. The ideal sit position is when his head is positioned slightly in front of your left leg.
Once your dog is there, praise him greatly with enthusiasm. The tid-bit reward should be used very sparingly(if at all) in these initial exercises. With the leash in your right hand, and with the left-hand palm, swing it forward in a sweeping motion with the command: (His Name) and HEEL! Begin a brisk walk in any direction. Use the command , "Heel" with every change of direction. Alternate your pace from time to time until he understands. He should remain there until you stop completely. At this point in stopping, your command is:
(dog's name) and "SIT". If he does not sit, gently push his rear end down until he sits... then praise with enthusiasium. You will be amazed at how quickly they will respond. At the end of two weeks or so, they should be ready to engage the other categories of the novice class, chapter two of this training program . Pet manners does indeed matter.( CHAPTER - 2 )
Hello again Friends, welcome to chapter 2 in our dog training program. The very first thing before this next beginning, please review the previous chapter # 1... by actually and physically performing the training procedures of "HEEL" and "SIT" with your dog on leash. This is necessary for a "Warm Up" for this next session, which is: To :"STAY " "COME" "SIT" "STAY""DOWN" "STAY" and " HEEL". Assuming your dog is performing well at this point, and while he is in the correct and proper "Heel" and "Sit" position,
with your left-hand palm wide open, place it gently, and directly on his nose, give the command his name) and "STAY" ....walk slowly out in front the full length of the leash with the commands his name) and "stay"... repeating as you go.. If he stays in the sitting position about 15 seconds after you face him, give a firm command: ( his name) and "COME", along with a gentle tug of the leash to direct him to you. Once there, command him to "sit", give praise when he does it, voice scold if he doesn't with a gentle push on his rear. Then praise again. When in this "sit" position now in front of you, give the command his name) and "Heel!"(THIS IS NOT TO WALK, ONLY TO STATION HIM IN THE CORRECT LEFTSIDE "HEEL" SITTING POSITION.)
There are two ways this procedure is acceptable.
# -1 With the leash in your right-hand, direct your dog around your backside to the regular "Heel" position to sit at your left side. Again, give him praise, if and when he complies. (This one is easier to learn for the dog, but doesn't have the best look as number 2 when mastered.)
# - 2 When your dog is in the "sit" position, give the same commands, and with the control of the leash from your right hand, reach with your left hand and guide his rear-end counter-clockwise to the "heel" position at your left side. At first, you may need to use some persuasion, with care of course, but the results will be very gratifying. With either method you choose, stick with it throughout the entire course. Repeat these exercises until both you and the dog are familiar with the moves. From this point you and your dog are back in the "Heel" position. On every planned training session, always review the previous exercises to "overlap" a new introductory one. And as always, continue to be patient, repeticious and dedicated. Remember, "Just when you think they won't...they will!"
To continue and complete the required novice class procedures, there are two other exercises that should come a lot easier since you and your dog are well along in the previous commands. They are "DOWN-STAY") and ("STAND-STAY".) Both of these commands are rendered while you are walking your dog in the "Heel" position; stop often as you go, your dog should sit without command each time..then on the occasion, give the command: "stay" with the usual left-palm movement, slowly walk out in front by the length of the leash. With an arm and hand movement downward in a profound way, give the command: "DOWN" ! (You may have to go to him a couple of times to help him down with several firm snaps downward with the leash, but this one will come easy for it's something they love to do anyway.) Give him about 30 seconds, before the command "STAND"). Encourage him to "stand" for about 20 seconds, all the while you are repeating the word "STAND". Next, display joy and pleasure for his "stand" and then give the commands dog's name and " SIT" ) ( name, "COME") then ( name, "SIT") then ( name "HEEL".) This is: to station him on your left side,)
(HEEL, THIS IS YOUR STARTING AND FINISHING POSITION THROUGHOUT THE ENTIRE PROGRAM)
Don't forget to heap the praise upon their compliance, even if you have to assist them. While all of this may sound easy and simple, just remember, it is repetition that produces great results. Continue repeating the exercises as I stated them above, until you become convinced it's time to go to the next exercise. Please don't skip around with the procedures, this will only prolong and confuse the learning process. To close this chapter as a novice, there are a few things that are necessary to absorb.
(1) - Your dog, through natural instincts wants to please you.
A. This is the main reason for patience and repetition on your part.
(2) -Between training sessions play around with your dog for fun.
A. This will show him the difference between work and play.
B. It will strengthen the bond between you.
C. Believe it or not, it will make both of you happier.
(3) At all times you must be smarter than the dog.
A. there will be times you may be confused about what is the best procedure to follow, and your dog will sense it , and could become defiant and also confused.
B. Once again, repetition in planning, firmness in delivery, praises for sucesses, and proper reprimands for resistance, all will reward you and your dog in the end.
(4) Remember the adage: "Rome wasn't built in a day!" Well, dogs are not trained in a day. It will take several months to a year perhaps to master the complete training course, but the challenge and it's worth will be the most pleasurable thing you ever attempted. Believe me I know!
(5) Work at the above instructions for about 10 days or so should be enought time to prepare you and your dog for chapter 3 or 4 of this training lesson. These chapters will cover an advanced class to the "Agility" or "Companion Dog" status. If you have a purebred with papers, or not, or a mixed breed, and still want the well mannered pet, the foregoing program should suffice your needs. However, if you're interested in furthering your dog's activity for obedience trials sanctioned by the American kennel Club, the continuation is a necessary requirement. You can continue this program, chapter 3 and 4 to it's entirety by linking to: http://members.cox.net/more-food-for-thought/pet_manners_matters.htm
THE POEM, "ROCKY AND ME" AND "TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS" ON TEACHING TRICKS TO YOUR DOG WILL CONCLUDE THIS TRAINING PROGRAM IN CHAPTER 4.
'Til then, good luck,and may God Bless you and your pet(s).William E. Hardison (c)
PLEASE DO NOT COPY OR PRINT WITHOUT PERMISSION
VISIT MY MAIN WEBSITE OF POETRY AND GUESTBOOK BELOW.
http://members.cox.net/food-for-thought3/ ALSO TO CONTINUE WITH THE TRAINNING PROGRAM AT CHAPTERS 3 AND 4 ('PET MANNERS MATTERS")
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